Alto El Sifón, the most beautiful pass in Colombia
On October 19th, 2024, Gregario.co took on the monumental challenge of cycling Alto El Sifón. This climb, stretching 88 km with an average gradient of 4.3%, is the longest paved climb ever featured in a UCI professional competition and undoubtedly the most beautiful pass in Colombia. Alto El Sifón is situated in the Cordillera Central, the highest of the three branches of the Colombian Andes. One of the key highlights of this ascent is the majestic Nevado del Ruiz (5,311 meters), which will stand as a witness to the effort throughout the climb.
The challenge begins towards Alto El Sifón
We chose the picturesque town of Mariquita, 20 km from Armero-Guayabal, as our base for the night before our cycling adventure. Early the next morning, we drove to Armero-Guayabal. Our group, five enthusiastic cyclists made a quick stop at a service station near the intersection leading to Líbano and the start of the renowned Strava segment Alto El Sifón (Oficial). At 6:30 am, under a cloudy yet warm and humid sky with temperatures at 28°C, we unloaded our bikes and embarked on our exciting challenge.
The base of the climb starts in Armero Guayabal, a municipality in the Tolima Department of Colombia. This town is known for its tragic history and its resilience. Armero, once a prosperous town, was devastated by the eruption of the Nevado del Ruiz volcano on November 13, 1985. The eruption triggered massive volcanic mudflows that buried the town, resulting in the death of nearly 25,000 people. Today, the area is marked by impressive ruins, including the main hospital, now overtaken by vegetation.
The Ascent to Líbano, a traditional Colombian coffee town
Just seconds after our first pedal stroke, it started drizzling and continued for the first 35 km until we reached the charming town of Líbano. Despite the rain, we were excited and a bit nervous to tackle the second-longest paved climb and the highest road pass in Colombia.
The route from Armero-Guayabal to Líbano is surrounded by fertile volcanic soil that nurtures a variety of crops, including plantains, bananas, sugarcane, and coffee trees.
We decided to stop in Líbano to regroup after one of our mates got a puncture. Nestled at an altitude of 1,565 meters, Líbano is a historic coffee-producing municipality with a rich tradition of coffee cultivation. Many families in the area depend on coffee farming for their livelihood. We found a cozy coffee shop where our supportive driver enjoyed a delicious tamal, a traditional Colombian dish made of steamed corn dough filled with meats, vegetables, and spices, wrapped in banana leaves. Meanwhile, we savored some regional coffee while taking in the stunning view of the expansive coffee crops surrounding the town.
The Journey to Murillo, the last town of this cycling journey
After our break, we continued our journey towards Murillo. The route between Líbano and Murillo is a scenic ascent through the lush landscapes of the Cordillera Central. The first 14 km from Líbano to Murillo were the most difficult part of the climb, with an average gradient of 6%. This section tested our endurance and determination as we navigated steep gradients and sharp turns.
As we climbed higher, the road wound through dense forests and past cascading waterfalls, creating a picturesque backdrop. The air grew cooler and fresher, providing a welcome relief from the earlier humidity. We were treated to breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and valleys, which made every challenging pedal stroke worthwhile.
The climb was relentless, with sections that seemed to stretch endlessly upwards. Our legs burned, and our breaths came in heavy gasps, but the stunning scenery and the group’s camaraderie kept us motivated.
Finally, Murillo, perched at an altitude of 2,950 meters, welcomed us with its picturesque setting and the promise of more adventures ahead.
Alto de Ventanas, breathtaking Paramo views
After passing through Murillo, having ridden 58 km, we began to feel the effects of the high altitude. The reduced oxygen levels made each breath more labored, and our muscles fatigued more quickly. Despite the fatigue, we pushed on, motivated by the stunning scenery and the camaraderie of our group. However, due to this fatigue, our once compact group started to spread out.
We had 30 km left, the most awe-inspiring and grueling part of the route. The stunning landscape matched our immense effort. As we climbed higher, we entered the unique páramo. This ecosystem with its high-altitude grasslands and wetlands, is dotted with frailejones standing like sentinels in the mist. Each kilometer tested our limits, but the stunning scenery and our determination drove us forward. Around 20 km from Murillo, we reached Alto de Ventanas at 4,000 meters above sea level, offering a brief respite with spectacular views.
The final push, 10 km to Alto El Sifón
From Alto de Ventanas, we had 10 km left to Alto El Sifón. Despite the fatigue and lack of oxygen, the views were incredibly rewarding. As we continued, we encountered several pristine lagoons nestled in the high-altitude páramo. These serene bodies of water, surrounded by unique frailejones plants, known as big monks, reflected the sky and the landscape, creating a mesmerizing sight. The route was less steep, and the vast, untouched wilderness was both humbling and invigorating, reminding us of the beauty and challenge of our journey. Finally, after 88 km, 6 hours, and 37 minutes, we conquered Alto El Sifón at 4,135 meters.
At the top of this climb, there’s nothing but the vast páramos filled with frailejones. Although the road is in great condition, it’s narrow, with no space for parking. You have two options to find a coffee or a hot aguapanela (a traditional Colombian sugarcane drink): either go back to Alto Ventanas, where you can find local coffee shops, or continue downhill with some short climbs for approximately 10 km to the area known as El 8. From there, you can head to the restaurant La Esperanza, well-known among locals. It’s located at the intersection that connects El Sifón to the city of Manizales or Alto de Letras, the other giant climb of Colombia.
Category: Hors catégorie (HC)
Distance: 87.7 km
Elevation gained: 4,280 m
Maximum altitude: 4,135 m
Minimum altitude: 353 m
See Strava segment
By Andrés Urrego, Gregario Cycling
Photography: Sebastián Ochoa, Gregario Cycling
